Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
